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AMERICAN SOUTH
01
Institution
Galatoire’s
HISTORY
National Civil Rights Museum
MUSIC
MUSCLE SHOALS SOUND STUDIO
Conjures up a kind of magic that’s rare to find in America, if not the world.
Desert Southwest
01
INTERVIEW
The Sea Islands
BOTANIST
Time is a slippery thing along the Sea Island coast, a marshy waterworld of oak hammocks, shrimp docks and sleepy towns, all lilted with a sing-song accent that, together, conjures up a kind of magic that’s rare to find in America, if not the world. Welcome to the Lowcountry. Every road trip here begs for that hourlong drive that takes half a day. Here’s yours. Cruise the backroads through Johns Island, Wadmalaw and Edisto, then veer up to Highway 17, all the while soaking in this marshy maritime forest vision. You’ll see roadside fruit stands, sweetgrass weavers, crushed-shell driveways and more ghostly oaks than you can count. Stop at McIntosh Book Shoppe in Beaufort, a lucky charm of a small town, and pick up a novel by Pat Conroy, the Lowcountry laureate. Before the stars rise, either pitch your surfside tent on Hunting Island or tuck in at the enchanting Palmetto Bluff. And remember: Take your time.
I do floristics, which is the study of shrubs, grasses, trees and flowering plants.dication –and later on,
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CALIFORNIA
02
hotel
sunset tower
breakfast SPOT
cheeky’s
fresh fish
wild planet
The most famous thing he wrote was for The Flinstones.
Desert Southwest
01
INTERVIEW
Director Ron Howard
BOTANIST
“I remember driving from Queens in a ’52 Plymouth. Painted Desert, Grand Canyon, over the Mojave Desert and into Los Angeles. I was four. We lived in a tiny one-floor apartment in Burbank. My father was always writing, memorizing scripts. The most famous thing he wrote was for The Flintstones. When The Andy Griffith Show opened, we moved to Hollywood so we could walk to the studio. Eventually they bought a three-bedroom in Burbank. It had a little pool, a big luxury.”
I do floristics, which is the study of shrubs, grasses, trees and flowering plants.dication –and later on,
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DESERT SOUTHWEST
03
DETOUR
The Very Large Array
bar
owls club
Motel
mojave sands
Too fast for a plane, too slow for a meteor.
Desert Southwest
01
INTERVIEW
LIFE Magazine, 1952
BOTANIST
“In the summer of 1948, Clyde W. Tombaugh, the discoverer of the planet Pluto, was sitting in the backyard of his home in Las Cruces, N. Mex. With him were his wife and his mother-in-law. It was about 11 p.m. and they were all sitting quietly, admiring the clarity of the southwestern sky, like any proper astronomical family. All at once they saw something rush silently overhead, south to north, too fast for a plane, too slow for a meteor. All three of the witnesses agreed that the object was definitely a solid ‘ship’ of a kind they had never seen before. It was of an oval shape and ‘seemed to trail off at the rear into a shapeless luminescence.’ There was a blue-green glow. About half a dozen ‘windows’ were clearly visible at the front of the ship and along the side.”
I do floristics, which is the study of shrubs, grasses, trees and flowering plants.dication –and later on,
1
NEW ENGLAND
04
LODGING
Chebeague Island Inn
sunrise
Cadillac Mountain
DATE NIGHT
The Prairie Whale
It holds a spiritual and metaphysical implication as a guiding light.
Desert Southwest
01
INTERVIEW
Lighthouse keeper Sally Snowman on Boston Light
BOTANIST
“I was 10 years old when my dad first brought me to Boston Light. I decided at that moment that was where I wanted to get married. And so in 1994 I did. Boston Light has sat on Little Brewster Island for 300 years, alighting the way into Nantasket Roads, the harbor’s main shipping channel. It holds a philosophical, spiritual and metaphysical implication as a guiding light through the darkest times. I live on the island April through October. The energy on Little Brewster Island is much lighter than the heaviness I feel when on the mainland. I feel claustrophobic in cities.”
I do floristics, which is the study of shrubs, grasses, trees and flowering plants.dication –and later on,
1
PACIFIC NORTHWEST
05
island hotel
Captain Whidbey Inn
oysters
The Walrus & the Carpenter
HIKE
Wildwood Trail
It could be 500 years ago. It could be many years into the future.
Desert Southwest
01
INTERVIEW
Actor Kyle MacLachlan, star of Twin Peaks:
BOTANIST
“We shot in the Cascades—real lush and green and damp and moody, of course. There's a mystical quality to those woods. Water and chill. You're bundled up. Fresh-cut lumber, the sawmill, the smell of the woods. It cries out for the warmth of a community: The way the clouds move through the dark, dark trees. So quiet. The ground is covered with moss. Trees have fallen. Time disappears. It could be 500 years ago. It could be many years into the future.”
I do floristics, which is the study of shrubs, grasses, trees and flowering plants.dication –and later on,
1
TEXAS
06
DANCE HALL
Albert Icehouse
kolaches
Hruska’s
stars
Palo Duro Canyon State Park
How I fish, every decision, every breath. It’s a gift.
Desert Southwest
01
INTERVIEW
South Texas fishing guide JT Van Zandt
BOTANIST
“Growing up in Houston, we spent lots of weekends in Galveston, but I don’t think I really saw the Texas coast. It’s not an obvious beauty. But once you really dig into it, the place shows itself. The fly rod has become a tool for me. It’s a way to test the health of a place. The open air, the woods, the water: A calm comes over me when I’m fishing. In retrospect, coming from a broken household, watching my dad [songwriter Townes Van Zandt] slowly go, fly fishing helped make sense of the world for me. We’re so separated from the frontier. But down here, in Rockport and these waters, you see the world. Pelicans, egrets, whooping cranes and stilts, and on and on. There are thousands of acres of ankle-deep water, with turtle grass, widgeon and spartina, the banks just popping with sounds. Mullet, blue crabs and stone crabs, mud shrimp. All these creatures, it’s spectacular. Even a baby could be dazzled by it. Everyone who goes out onto these waters just takes a deep breath. I think about how my dad left me his poetry and songs, sort of like a guide. And it reminds me that we all share in this place, this world. how I fish, every decision, every breath. It’s a gift.
I do floristics, which is the study of shrubs, grasses, trees and flowering plants.dication –and later on,
WIN A BIG SUR ESCAPE
Luxury redwoods lodging. A dreamy spa day. The best of Big Sur and Highway 1.
Learn MoreCITY LIFE
1
AUSTIN
07
BURGER
Clark’s
SWIM SPOT
BARTON SPRINGS
HONKY TONK
Donn's Depot
Here’s the big truth: Armadillos are a kind bunch.
Desert Southwest
01
INTERVIEW
Notes on the armadillos of Austin
BOTANIST
Begrudged, beloved, misunderstood. Relatively unchanged in 50 million years, the armadillo has always been a survivor (unless found underneath a speeding F-150, in which case the sensitive souls instinctively launch themselves into the deadly undercarriage). Their leathery armored shells give them the appearance of gladiator possums, but no vicious bones can be found in their slothy bodies. Here’s the big truth: Armadillos are a kind bunch. They are gentle prowlers, sidestepping confrontation, openly sharing their burrows with rabbits and skunks. They eat up termites. Root out scorpions. And their females live half their lives pregnant, giving birth to identical quadruplets nearly always. Yet the rap in Texas has mostly been negative—strewn carcasses, crop killers, yucky little beasts. Except in Austin. Here, the Texas armadillo is the offbeat doppelgänger to the Texas Longhorn. Bronzed onto belt buckles, flown on flags, mascot for punk rock. King of weird.
I do floristics, which is the study of shrubs, grasses, trees and flowering plants.dication –and later on,
1
BOSTON
08
IRISH BAR
The Burren
MORNING RUN
Back Bay Fens
BOOKSTORE
Grolier Poetry Bookshop
Just 302 feet from home plate, the shortest home-run distance in the major leagues.
Desert Southwest
01
INTERVIEW
Key features of Fenway Park
BOTANIST
The Green Monster, symbol of Bostonian baseball, was originally built to block rubberneckers, and grew to 37 feet tall after a fire. Funky caroms haunt opposing fielders and pitchers, and Monster-top seats fetch top dollar. Just below, on Fenway's famed manual scoreboard, a human swaps out crooked numbers, working in a smelly cavern where autographs adorn the walls. All the way over in right field Pesky's Pole, named for a beloved fielder who was short on power, stakes a corner of the oddly-shaped outfield, just 302 feet from home plate, the shortest home-run distance in the major leagues.
I do floristics, which is the study of shrubs, grasses, trees and flowering plants.dication –and later on,
1
BROOKLYN
09
NEW AMERICAN
Olmsted
PERFORMANCE
Brooklyn Academy of Music
COCKTAIL
Long Island Bar
I have some celebrities that pop in now and again. I won’t say who.
Desert Southwest
01
INTERVIEW
Amethyst Valentino, on karaoke at Montero’s
BOTANIST
“First thing you see is the fluorescent sign outside, Montero Bar. Right on the corner of Atlantic and Hicks, next to I-278, two blocks from Brooklyn Bridge Park near the water. It’s an old longshoremen bar. Been there since 1947. You see all these old-fashioned life preservers, ships, this beautiful mermaid that used to be part of a ship. The regulars, we get lawyers, teachers, firemen, politicians. I have some celebrities that pop in now and again. I won’t say who. They come in, they have fun, and they don’t have to worry about being bombarded. Live and let live, you know? I’m there from 8:30 to 1:30. But don’t come in at 1:00 thinking you’re going to sing. My motto is: Make Montero’s your first stop, not your last.”
I do floristics, which is the study of shrubs, grasses, trees and flowering plants.dication –and later on,
1
DENVER
10
BAKERY
Wooden Spoon
SHOWS
Red Rocks Amphitheater
TROUT STREAM
BEAR CREEK
The wickedest street in America.
Desert Southwest
01
INTERVIEW
A tour of Colfax Avenue
BOTANIST
Once the wickedest street in America according to Playboy (a reputable source in this case), the 26-mile-long Colfax remains defiantly ungentrifiable, embracing its grit even as neighborhoods around it mellow. The Bluebird, once a pornographic movie theater in the ’70s and ’80s, now plays host to touring musical acts. Bastien’s is a family-run business that dates to the mid-1930s. Today, it’s best known for its neon sign and sugar-rubbed steaks, served no more than medium-rare. Next stop: Casa Bonita, a spectacle of a Mexican restaurant. A South Park episode celebrated its famously mediocre meals, which include unlimited sopapillas. Down the road, a Russian family first opened the Lake Steam Baths in 1927. The place remains a relic of the past, which means single-sex bathing and no swimsuits allowed.
I do floristics, which is the study of shrubs, grasses, trees and flowering plants.dication –and later on,
1
NASHVILLE
11
RECORD SHOP
Grimey’s
MEAT-AND-THREE
Arnold’s Country Kitchen
DIVE BAR
DINO'S
The whole damn room joined in the singing.
Desert Southwest
01
INTERVIEW
Writer Drew Bratcher on the Station Inn
BOTANIST
“One Sunday night, at the Station Inn in Nashville, I watched an old man get to his feet and play the first chord of a bluegrass song. He had a gold front tooth and wore pressed blue jeans. For an hour, he had quietly fingered his guitar as pickers in folding chairs traded solo after solo and the crowd, a couple hundred flush, nodded along. Now, at a lull in the jam, he strummed and halted as if calling the house to order and he sang: ‘I remember the night, little darling / We were talking of days gone by / When you told me you always would love me / That for me your love would never die.’ And it was as if the lines had lit a fuse. First the inner circle of pickers, then the outer, and then what felt like the whole damn room joined in the singing. Even the ones not singing were sort of mouthing the words, and I wondered how many times the song had filled the club through the decades.”
I do floristics, which is the study of shrubs, grasses, trees and flowering plants.dication –and later on,
1
NEW ORLEANS
12
MODERN CAJUN
Mosquito Supper Club
NEIGHBORHOOD BAR
Vaughan’s Lounge
SNO-BALL
Hansen’s Sno-Bliz
To drive a woman crazy, sprinkle nutmeg in her left shoe every night at midnight.
Desert Southwest
01
INTERVIEW
Superstitions gathered by Louisiana writer Robert Tallant in the 1930s
BOTANIST
Always burn the onion peels and you will always have money.
To get rid of a man, pick a rooster naked, give him a spoonful of whiskey, then put in his beak a piece of paper on which is written nine times the name of the person to be gotten rid of. Turn the rooster loose in St. Roch’s cemetery. Within three days the man will die.
To make the chicken stay home, spit in its throat and throw it up the chimney.
To drive a woman crazy, sprinkle nutmeg in her left shoe every night at midnight.
To get rid of a man, pick a rooster naked, give him a spoonful of whiskey, then put in his beak a piece of paper on which is written nine times the name of the person to be gotten rid of. Turn the rooster loose in St. Roch’s cemetery. Within three days the man will die.
To make the chicken stay home, spit in its throat and throw it up the chimney.
To drive a woman crazy, sprinkle nutmeg in her left shoe every night at midnight.
I do floristics, which is the study of shrubs, grasses, trees and flowering plants.dication –and later on,
1
Philadelphia
13
CHEESE STEAK
John’s Roast Pork
ECLECTIC ART
Barnes Foundation
GREENERY
Bartram’s Garden
It is very clearly a fake.
Desert Southwest
01
INTERVIEW
1-star reviews from Liberty Bell visitors
BOTANIST
“Cracked bell behind glass ... better view in your history book, better mystique too! Go see South Philly instead!”
“I saw it from a window 'cause everything closes there at 5. So inconvenient. Our freedom isn't even free.”
“Boring. Long lines for a broken bell. Either fix the damn thing or get a new one. Nobody can explain why this is important. They just keep saying it's an important institution of American independence, just like Cher. Don't see this if you wouldn't pay for a Cher concert.”
“It is very clearly a fake.”
“Just a bell.”
“I saw it from a window 'cause everything closes there at 5. So inconvenient. Our freedom isn't even free.”
“Boring. Long lines for a broken bell. Either fix the damn thing or get a new one. Nobody can explain why this is important. They just keep saying it's an important institution of American independence, just like Cher. Don't see this if you wouldn't pay for a Cher concert.”
“It is very clearly a fake.”
“Just a bell.”
I do floristics, which is the study of shrubs, grasses, trees and flowering plants.dication –and later on,
1
PORTLAND
14
PUB
Moon & Sixpence
SOUP DUMPLINGS
XLB
SAUNA
Löyly
A wellspring of used, rare and vintage finds that fill salvaged-wood shelves.
Desert Southwest
01
INTERVIEW
Notes on key Portland bookstores
BOTANIST
Monograph Bookwerks is an art-lover’s sanctuary, snug at 175 square feet, where pristine volumes on the visual disciplines share space with original prints, ceramics, textiles and other collectibles. A short venture across the East Side finds Mother Foucault’s, a wellspring of used, rare and vintage finds that fill salvaged-wood shelves, floor to celing, in an Old-World-y, salon-like space. [Cellphone usage is forbidden here.] And the empress of them all, of course, is Powell’s City of Books, a monument to indie bookselling, quartering one million-plus tomes and welcoming thousands of readers every day: the Notre Dame of Portland. As Emily Powell, the shop’s intergenerational owner, says: “A book might take 10 years to sell, but when it does, it’s the exact right book for the exact right moment. That's the magic.”
I do floristics, which is the study of shrubs, grasses, trees and flowering plants.dication –and later on,
1
SAN FRANCISCO
15
California Cuisine
FRANCES
Literary Epicenter
CITY LIGHTS BOOKS
OJBECTS
HEATH CERAMICS
Climb Hawk Hill with the blue butterflies.
Desert Southwest
01
INTERVIEW
Notes on epic San Francisco views
BOTANIST
Second in height only to Mount Davidson, Twin Peaks (904 and 922 feet, respectively) has the panoramic-est view. Then at De Young Museum, the gently spiraling, 144-foot tower design by Herzog & deMeuron offers an all-glass, 360-degree vista out over the Sunset and Richmond neighborhoods. Feels like floating. But driving over the Golden Gate, to your immediate left is the Marin Headlands—the very best view of San Francisco, foggy or clear skies. Climb Hawk Hill with the blue butterflies to stock your IG feed with treasure.
I do floristics, which is the study of shrubs, grasses, trees and flowering plants.dication –and later on,
1
SAVANNAH
16
DINNER
THE GREY
History
PIN POINT HERITAGE MUSEUM
BROWSE
SHOPSCAD
His parents were
good friends with the Houdinis.
good friends with the Houdinis.
Desert Southwest
01
INTERVIEW
Andrew Bradley, on his family’s
19th century business:
19th century business:
BOTANIST
“I took Bradley Lock and Key over from my grandad. We’ve owned it since 1883. It was established by my grand-dad’s granddad, Simon Bradley, then run by my grandad’s dad, Aaron Bradley. Then my grand-dad, Dennie Houdini Bradley, took over. I believe his parents were good friends with the Houdinis. Aaron was a hypnotist, and they would put on shows together. A lot of Victorian houses in Savannah still use skeleton keys. We still make those. You have to hand-file them. But we’re also caught up on current-day technology. It’s not a normal job. You have no idea what you’re going to run into every day. Or what door you're going to unlock.”
I do floristics, which is the study of shrubs, grasses, trees and flowering plants.dication –and later on,
1
SEATTLE
17
BIKES
Métier
COFFEE
ANALOG
RAIN GEAR
FILSON
Nirvana were nice guys from the sticks, basically. Not Seattle people.
Desert Southwest
01
INTERVIEW
Record producer Jack Endino on the origins of grunge
BOTANIST
“In the fall of ’86, we were working on the first Soundgarden 7-inch. That was the first time I thought, ‘Wow, we’ve got something here.’ By late 1986, people were starting to talk about it. We knew something was going on. My whole point was low-budget, without being lo-fi. Nirvana were nice guys from the sticks, basically. Not Seattle people. Bleach was four or five evenings, basically—maybe 30 hours. Which only works if you have a band that’s very prepared. Kurt would say, ‘Wait a minute, I have to finish the lyrics.’ He would sit and finish the lyrics and say, ‘Okay, I’m ready.’ Just like that. He’d been singing something repetitive, or gibberish, maybe. No one realized it.”
I do floristics, which is the study of shrubs, grasses, trees and flowering plants.dication –and later on,
1
TWIN CITIES
18
NORDIC FARE
Fika
MEN'S STYLE
ACE GENERAL STORE
HYGGE
Sauna Village
Thunder Curds, Screeching Pterodactyls, Concrete Mitts and Spud Muffins.
Desert Southwest
01
INTERVIEW
Notes on pond hockey
BOTANIST
Thunder Curds, Screeching Pterodactyls, Concrete Mitts and Spud Muffins are the names of just a few of the 250 teams that converge on more than 25 temporary rinks carved into Lake Nokomis for the annual U.S. Pond Hockey Championships each January. From elf suits and tuxedo-print jerseys to fur hats and wigs, the regalia and attitude are decidedly intramural, especially in the beer-loaded warming tent. But former NHL players can be seen skating in Open Division games. (Players with more passion than professional-level skill can be found in the Rink Rat Division.) Prizes include a cup made from cans, a silver snow scoop and, the ultimate, the Golden Shovel, which, like the Stanley Cup, bears the names of winning teams through the event’s history.
I do floristics, which is the study of shrubs, grasses, trees and flowering plants.dication –and later on,
1
WASHINGTON, D.C.
19
VINYL
Birdland Records
SOUTHERN COOKING
Florida Avenue Grill
Museum
Smithsonian American Art Museum
Lore from booth 3 includes JFK proposing to Jackie.
Desert Southwest
01
INTERVIEW
Inside three Washington power-drinking dens
BOTANIST
Off the Record is a velvet-lined den, a lobbyist's shout from the White House. Political caricatures liven up the walls, coasters and arguably the barstools. Try the Bipartisan Consensus, a negroni with a pilsner float—it's as rare as it sounds. Nearby, the Round Robin Bar, like its home in the Willard Hotel, harks back to olden D.C. days. Henry Clay [Whig-KY] brought the mint julep to an earlier incarnation of the bar, all the way back in the 1820s. Raise a toast to the portraits of bygone bigwigs. And the contender for D.C.'s most significant nook: Booth #3 at Georgetown's Martin Tavern. Lore includes JFK proposing to Jackie, and Supreme Court justices debating Brown v. Board of Education.
I do floristics, which is the study of shrubs, grasses, trees and flowering plants.dication –and later on,
Wild PLaces
1
BIG BEND
20
HISTORIC STAY
GAGE HOTEL
ART TOUR
Chinati Foundation
DINNER
THE STARLIGHT THEATRE
I slept alone under the shooting stars of Texas, dreaming of rocks and shovels.
Desert Southwest
01
INTERVIEW
Edward Abbey on a night in Big Bend
BOTANIST
“Coyotes howled like banshees from the foothills of Backbone Ride, gaunt Mexican cattle bellowed down in the river bottom, and across the western sky hung the lurid, smoldering fires of sunset, a spectacle grim and ghastly as the announcement of the end of the world. A scorpion scuttled out of the shadows past our mesquite fire, hunting its evening meal. I made our bed in a dusty clearing in the cactus, but my lover refused to sleep with me, preferring, she said, to curl up in the back seat of her car. The omens multiplied and all were dark. I slept alone under the shooting stars of Texas, dreaming of rocks and shovels.”
I do floristics, which is the study of shrubs, grasses, trees and flowering plants.dication –and later on,
1
BIG SUR
21
RESTAURANT
Nepenthe
RETREAT
ESALEN
GOLF
PEBBLE BEACH
Sand with a psychedelic, snakeskin-like pattern.
Desert Southwest
01
INTERVIEW
Katie Rose, marine biologist at Ventana Big Sur, on Pfeiffer Beach
BOTANIST
“You take a steep turn off Highway 1 and drop down into Sycamore Canyon. Walk two minutes through a cypress grove, where a little stream meanders along the side. By the stream, there’s sand with a psychedelic, purple, snakeskin-like pattern. Stones of all colors. Beyond the purple comes the finest, whitest, softest sand. At the beach access, you see huge rocks protruding from the ocean. One is a keyhole rock with waves crashing through, perfect to watch the sunset through. In terms of marine life—oh my goodness, it has everything: whales, sea otters, dolphins and white sharks. You can look at something really up close and small, but the real mystery comes from surrendering to the grand hugeness of it all.”
I do floristics, which is the study of shrubs, grasses, trees and flowering plants.dication –and later on,
1
COLORADO ROCKIES
22
SCENIC DRIVE
San Juan Skyway
GHOST TOWN BAR
Bread Bar
WESTERN WEAR
F.M. Light & Sons
Soon you’ll feel like a smoked-glass bauble stippled in light surrounds you.
Desert Southwest
01
INTERVIEW
Notes on stargazing in the high country
BOTANIST
Lie on your back on a moonless night in the Colorado Rockies, and soon you'll feel like a smoked-glass bauble stippled in light surrounds you.
URSA MAJOR: The Big Dipper. Known as the "Great Bear" in some Native American traditions. Rises in the northwestern sky, sets in the north.
URSA MINOR: The Little Dipper. Polaris, the North Star, makes up the tip of its tail. Rises east of Ursa Major and drifts overhead.
SCORPIUS: A scorpion sent to kill Orion in Greek myth. Scuttles across the horizon, tail hooking the plain of the Milky Way. Rises in the southeastern sky, sets to the southwest.
CASSIOPEIA: A woman in a chair. Named for a vain queen who enraged Poseidon, Greek god of the sea. Rises in the northern sky and drifts overhead.
DRACO: A dragon cast into the sky by Greek goddess Athena. The S-shaped ribbon of stars just west of Ursa Minor. Rises and sets in the northern sky.
URSA MAJOR: The Big Dipper. Known as the "Great Bear" in some Native American traditions. Rises in the northwestern sky, sets in the north.
URSA MINOR: The Little Dipper. Polaris, the North Star, makes up the tip of its tail. Rises east of Ursa Major and drifts overhead.
SCORPIUS: A scorpion sent to kill Orion in Greek myth. Scuttles across the horizon, tail hooking the plain of the Milky Way. Rises in the southeastern sky, sets to the southwest.
CASSIOPEIA: A woman in a chair. Named for a vain queen who enraged Poseidon, Greek god of the sea. Rises in the northern sky and drifts overhead.
DRACO: A dragon cast into the sky by Greek goddess Athena. The S-shaped ribbon of stars just west of Ursa Minor. Rises and sets in the northern sky.
I do floristics, which is the study of shrubs, grasses, trees and flowering plants.dication –and later on,
1
Grand canyon
23
MOTEL
Jacob Lake Inn
WOODEN BOATS
FRETWATER BOATWORKS
POST-HIKE BEER
Bright Angel Lodge
The Snake Legend—like any good story—ends with the traveler finding love.
Desert Southwest
01
INTERVIEW
Backstory from iconic Desert View Watchtower
BOTANIST
This ragged cyclinder, 70 feet call, stands 25 rim-edge miles east of Grand Canyon Village. The 1932 tower exhibits architect Mary Jane Colter's refined rusticity—see also Phantom Ranch and Bright Angel Lodge—and interpretation of Indigenous architecture. [It is, essentially, a riff on Ancestral Puebloan lookouts.] Four Native artists contributed interior murals; most famously, Fred Kabotie painted the Hopi Snake Legend. “My grandfather was given artistic freedom,” says Ed Kabotie, artist and musician. “He depicted the first river-runner, at least a millennium before Powell.” The younger Kabotie recently contributed to the conservatory cleaning of the watchtower's interior art. He notes that the Snake Legend—like any good story—ends in the traveler finding love, far to the south. He returned home to found a new clan.
I do floristics, which is the study of shrubs, grasses, trees and flowering plants.dication –and later on,
1
GREAT SMOKY MOUNTAINS
24
HIKE
GREGORY RIDGE
GEAR
Tuckaseegee Fly Shop
SWEET FIX
HOLE DOUGHNUTS
Eventually, the entire hillside was pulsing with light.
Desert Southwest
01
INTERVIEW
Notes on synchronized fireflies
BOTANIST
At least 19 types of fireflies are found in the Smokies, but just one flashes in synchrony: Photinus carolinus is the only known species in the world that performs this light show. The bioluminescence is part of the fireflies’ mating display. Are all the males giving one another a fair shot? Does this simultaneous light-flirting make it easier to find a mate? The short answer: No one yet knows for sure. When the mass flashing reaches its peak—usually between late May and late June—Elkmont hosts a three-night viewing party, although lucky campers may spot groups flashing in sync elsewhere in the park. Because flashlights and other human interaction can harm fireflies, visitation is restricted to a lottery. While the park’s populations seem to be doing fine, the Park Service carefully manages the event to keep it that way. (Pro tip: Red flashlights help cut down on white light disturbance.) “The first time I saw the synchronous fireflies, everyone became instinctively quiet as we waited for the first flashes,” says Becky Nichols, the park’s aquatic entomologist and resident firefly expert. “Eventually, the entire hillside was pulsing with light.”
I do floristics, which is the study of shrubs, grasses, trees and flowering plants.dication –and later on,
1
HAWAI'i
25
Catamarans
Makawa Charters
Treat
JoJo's Shave Ice
BOOKSHOP
Talk Story
One of the most isolated places in the world.
Desert Southwest
01
INTERVIEW
Notes on a dramatic, 17-mile stretch of coast
BOTANIST
The Napali Coast State Wilderness Park casts a siren’s song over adventurers, but the storied 11-mile Kalalau Trail isn’t undertaken lightly. You’ll need advance reservations and a permit to enter Ha’ena State Park, the start of the trailhead and literally the end of the road at Kaua’i’s North Shore. A four-mile, out-and-back hike to Hanakapi’ai Beach is achievable for most. Tack on the two-mile uphill climb of 760 feet, crossing several streams, to reach the 300-foot waterfall. Trekking the entire Kalalau Trail is a strenuous affair that involves traversing untouched landscape, native trees and agricultural terraces before ending up at the white-sand beach and the mouth of the vast amphitheater of Kalalau Valley. The end of the trail is one of the most isolated places in the world, the quilt of stars above your campsite unforgettable. And get this: There’s still more than one-third of the Napali coastline that’s inaccessible by land. The only way to take in the totality is by air or by sea.
I do floristics, which is the study of shrubs, grasses, trees and flowering plants.dication –and later on,
1
JOSHUA TREE
26
WESTERN STAY
Pioneertown Motel
KNICK KNACKS
THE STATION
MODERN DINER
LA COPINE
The weathered skull of a giant tucked in among the boulders.
Desert Southwest
01
INTERVIEW
Exploration notes on Skull Rock
BOTANIST
Hulking and slightly creepy, one of the most famous rocks in the park resembles the weathered skull of a giant tucked in among the boulders that surround Jumbo Rocks Campground. As is often the case with uncanny-looking depressions in rock, erosion is the culprit: accumulated water gradually eroded the granite, forming two deep cavities like empty eye sockets, slightly downcast and peering into the boulder-strewn desert. The rock is accessible from Park Boulevard, with parking right across the street, or you can amble the 1.8-mile nature trail to take in more of the surrounding boulders, as well as plants like cat's claw acacia, desert almond and California buckwheat.
I do floristics, which is the study of shrubs, grasses, trees and flowering plants.dication –and later on,
1
THE MOON
27
BOOK
The Right Stuff by Tom Wolfe
DARK SKY
Rainbow Bridge National Monument
PHOTOGRAPH
Earthrise by William Anders
I look at Apollo
as the greatest,
most expensive photographic
platform in history.
as the greatest,
most expensive photographic
platform in history.
Desert Southwest
01
INTERVIEW
Photographer Dan Winters on the Apollo program
BOTANIST
“I shot Neil Armstrong’s gloves. Gene Cernan’s uniform. Jim Lovell’s suit. Pad 39A, the launch complex Apollo 11 lifted off from. It is amazing to be in the presence of these artifacts, to have these full-circle moments I never could have imagined as a boy. I look at Apollo as the greatest, most expensive photographic platform in history. Because images are what connect us to that expedition. NASA retained Hasselblad to make special cameras and to come to the States to train the astronauts in photography. They learned it the same way they learned geology, by doing. That’s what I loved about the Apollo program.”
I do floristics, which is the study of shrubs, grasses, trees and flowering plants.dication –and later on,
1
TEXAS RIVERS
28
RIVER GUIDE
All Water Guides
SWIMMING
Blue Hole
GLASS-BOTTOM BOAT
Aquarena Springs
Rivers make terrible borders.
Desert Southwest
01
INTERVIEW
Filmmaker Ben Masters on the Rio Grande
BOTANIST
“Rivers make terrible borders. Everybody wants it; both countries take water out of it. But it’s also what makes the Rio Grande so special: You’re floating along two different countries. There’s river-left, which happens to be the United States, and there’s river-right, which happens to be Mexico. The wildlife doesn’t give a damn. Once you step into the river or kick a canoe off the shore, the international politics of the river fade away.”
I do floristics, which is the study of shrubs, grasses, trees and flowering plants.dication –and later on,
1
WESTERN MONTANA
29
ROAD TRIP
Skalkaho Pass
tavern
Sawmill Saloon
hike
waterworks hill
The place called the Crown of the Continent.
Desert Southwest
01
INTERVIEW
Glacier National Park
BOTANIST
You see it from afar: the place called the Crown of the Continent, looming like a mountain fortress. Created in 1910 [carved from Blackfeet land], Glacier National Park unfolds as a collage of contrasts. Bony rock peaks surround plush alpine lakes. Historic lodges and mountain chalets sit amid wild backcountry. Not a simple place. Climate change is melting the namesake ice; the robust grizzly bear populations means hikers need bear spray and caution. But to be here is to swim in Montana's essence.
1
YELLOWSTONE
30
BIKES
Freeheel and Wheel
BEER
GRAND TETON BREWING
BIG DINNER
Campione
Lolling or ambling, shaggy, ornery and awesome.
Desert Southwest
01
INTERVIEW
Notes on Yellowstone’s bison
BOTANIST
You will see them, lolling or ambling, shaggy, ornery and awesome. Up to 60 million Bison bison [buffalo] once roamed North America, underpinning Indigenous cultures. In the late 1800s, white hunters and soldiers wiped out the herds, largely to weaken Native resistance. By 1902, just 23 animals sheltered in the Yellowstone Plateau’s cold, remote haven—America’s last wild bison. Others were then shipped in from ranches in Texas and Montana, and park rangers nurtured the herd. Today’s population of more than 4,000 is controlled through culling, hunting [outside the park] and transfers to tribal herds. Unlike ranched “beefalo,” Yellowstone’s bison carry no cattle genetics. Note the enormous heads, used to plow snow and access forage.
I do floristics, which is the study of shrubs, grasses, trees and flowering plants.dication –and later on,
1
YOSEMITE
31
CLIMBING
Yosemite Mountaineering School
ART CLASS
Yosemite Conservancy
BREWERY
Around the Horn
The light is strong at 11,000 feet.
Desert Southwest
01
INTERVIEW
Photographer Ansel Adams' kit-list
for a hiking buddy, 1938
for a hiking buddy, 1938
BOTANIST
1. Good walking boots. I think you better get a pair in New York that you know will fit; I would be afraid of our local supply.
2. A couple pairs of Keds [basketball shoes]. Good for climbing around smooth granite and for resting in camp.
3. A small, comfortable knapsack for cameras, etc.
4. A couple of pairs of bluejeans [Levis] and a light camp outfit.
5. One warm coat or jacket and one light sweater.
6. Plenty of socks.
7. A good pair of dark glasses. The light is strong at 11,000 feet.
8. A light waterproof box for films [we might get a day or so of rain].
9. An ice-ax [climbers]. This is a great help in walking [as a cane] and climbing around [I am not going to take you on dangerous climbs!!!]
2. A couple pairs of Keds [basketball shoes]. Good for climbing around smooth granite and for resting in camp.
3. A small, comfortable knapsack for cameras, etc.
4. A couple of pairs of bluejeans [Levis] and a light camp outfit.
5. One warm coat or jacket and one light sweater.
6. Plenty of socks.
7. A good pair of dark glasses. The light is strong at 11,000 feet.
8. A light waterproof box for films [we might get a day or so of rain].
9. An ice-ax [climbers]. This is a great help in walking [as a cane] and climbing around [I am not going to take you on dangerous climbs!!!]
I do floristics, which is the study of shrubs, grasses, trees and flowering plants.dication –and later on,
food
ways
foodways
1
CHARLESTON
32
GREENSPACE
James Island County Park
LODGING
The Dewberry
Meat-and-Three
BERTHA’S KITCHEN
The most famous dinner in the city’s history.
Desert Southwest
01
INTERVIEW
Notes on a moment of culinary heritage
BOTANIST
Nat Fuller, one of the most respected chefs and caterers in Charleston in the 1850s and ’60s, was also enslaved. Working under the “self-hire” system (where slaves with certain transferable skills would pay a portion of their earnings to their captors in exchange for greater autonomy), Fuller opened his restaurant, The Bachelor’s Retreat, in October 1860, on the corner of Church Street and Saint Michael’sAlley. Fuller advertised it as “a favorite resort for gentlemen who desire lunches, meals or refreshments at any hours.” In the spring of 1865, now a free man, Nat Fuller hosted perhaps the most famous dinner in the city’s history, a “miscegenation feast” that brought whites and Blacks to shared tables in celebration of Lincoln, emancipation and the end of the Civil War.
I do floristics, which is the study of shrubs, grasses, trees and flowering plants.dication –and later on,
1
CHICAGO
33
ITALIAN BEEF
Carm’s Beef
RELICS
FIELD MUSEUM
OLD BAR
SHINNICK’S PUB
50 years of graffiti and grease line the walls.
Desert Southwest
01
INTERVIEW
Notes on the great Chicago pizza
BOTANIST
Call it touristy, call it an abomination. But nothing says Chicago like a hearty deep-dish pie. Pizzeria Uno is now a big chain, but the Victorian brownstone where deep-dish was invented is a turn-of-the-century relic. Head through the cozy entry, put in your order first thing, and, if you’re lucky, your pie will be ready when your table is. At Gino’s East on East Superior Street, more than 50 years of graffiti and grease line the walls, and the Meaty Legend—an absurd storm of pepperoni, Italian sausage, Canadian bacon—lives up to its name. Bartoli’s owner Brian Tondryk, the grandson of a Gino’s East co-founder, re-creates the Gino’s of his childhood at this BYO. Bartoli’s version is relatively light, but a large still involves a pound and a half of mozzarella. What happens when a great artisan baker takes on deep-dish on the Magnificent Mile? Labriola happens: Behold a gorgeous, crackly-crusted specimen. Pizano’s owner Rudy Malnati Jr.’s addictive recipe is inspired by the cornmeal-based “peasant pies” that his father made at Uno in the 1940s. It’s a meal and a history lesson.
Who's ready for dessert?
Who's ready for dessert?
I do floristics, which is the study of shrubs, grasses, trees and flowering plants.dication –and later on,
1
HAMPTONS & NORTH FORK
34
PRODUCE STOP
Amber Waves Farm
MUSEUM
PARRISH ART MUSEUM
INSTITUTION
NICK & TONI’S
This is a place of layers, just under the surface glitter.
Desert Southwest
01
INTERVIEW
Poet-farmer Scott Chaskey of Quail Hill Farm
BOTANIST
“This is a place of layers, just under the surface glitter of the Hamptons: generations of silt loam and tidal meadows, and generations of families, tribes, hamlets and towns awash with historical memory and salt spray. This is a place of diverse habitats: pine, oak and beech forests, inland ponds, maritime grasslands, tidal wetlands, salt marsh, miles of sandy beaches, and the walking dunes at Napeague. Those unfamiliar with this island are amazed—as I continue to be—that a narrow strip of land jutting out into the Atlantic can also contain superb growing soils. I respect the wisdom that the real health of a bioregion resides in the first 6 inches of topsoil; if only we counted our wealth here by that measure alone.”
I do floristics, which is the study of shrubs, grasses, trees and flowering plants.dication –and later on,
1
KENTUCKY BOURBON COUNTRY
35
cocktail bar
Dudley’s On Short
GLOBAL SOUTHERN
610 Magnolia
BASEBALL
Louisville Slugger Museum & Factory
When nosing bourbon, it’s important to keep your mouth open.
Desert Southwest
01
INTERVIEW
Tips on how to taste bourbon
BOTANIST
GLASSWARE: It might seem over the top, but vessel shape has a big impact on flavor perception. The standard whiskey-tasting glass is the Glencairn, with a wide bowl at the bottom and a taper to the top to harness aroma.
APPEARANCE: Hold it up to the light. Colors range from straw to amber, honey to gold, copper to maple.
AROMA: When nosing bourbon, it's important to keep your mouth open so as not to overwhelm the olfactory bulbs in the nasal cavities. Breathe through your mouth to get a more subtle sense of the aromas.
THE KENTUCKY CHEW: A statewide practice of swishing bourbon all around the inside of your mouth so it coats every taste receptor.
APPEARANCE: Hold it up to the light. Colors range from straw to amber, honey to gold, copper to maple.
AROMA: When nosing bourbon, it's important to keep your mouth open so as not to overwhelm the olfactory bulbs in the nasal cavities. Breathe through your mouth to get a more subtle sense of the aromas.
THE KENTUCKY CHEW: A statewide practice of swishing bourbon all around the inside of your mouth so it coats every taste receptor.
I do floristics, which is the study of shrubs, grasses, trees and flowering plants.dication –and later on,
1
NAPA & SONOMA
36
ITALIAN
Ciccio
WINERY VISIT
SCRIBE
TASTING ROOM
OUTLAND
Wines as good as anyone’s, or better.
Desert Southwest
01
INTERVIEW
Iconoclastic winemaker Tony Coturri
BOTANIST
“I face the Mayacamas Mountains. About an hour to the Golden Gate Bridge, about a quarter mile down a dirt road. My parents bought the property in 1961. I started making wine with my dad in 1963. If I went into a wineshop talking about organic grapes, their eyes would glaze over. I quickly learned to talk about wine just like everybody else. Once I made the sale, I’d say, ‘Oh, as an added attraction: natural yeast, organically grown.’ It meant I had to hone my craft to make wines that could compete on a the conventional level. I had to make wines as good as anyone’s or better.”
I do floristics, which is the study of shrubs, grasses, trees and flowering plants.dication –and later on,
1
SAN ANTONIO
37
LATIN FOLK ART
San Antonio Museum of Art
CHEF'S MENU
Mixtli
Tejano & Conjunto
Janie’s Record Shop
Corn chips business for sale, a new food product, making good money.
Desert Southwest
01
INTERVIEW
The origin story of Frito's
BOTANIST
Gustavo Olguin, a local soccer coach from Oaxaca, Mexico, posted this newspaper ad in the San Antonio Express, July 10,1932. Elmer Doolin responded and paid $100 for the recipe that would become Fritos corn chips. The secret? A converted potato ricer to make the corn masa. “Corn chips business for sale, a new food product, making good money. Must sacrifice.”
I do floristics, which is the study of shrubs, grasses, trees and flowering plants.dication –and later on,
1
TEXAS BARBECUE
38
ICON
Tootsie Tomanetz at SNOWS BBQ
NEW SCHOOL
LeRoy & Lewis Barbecue
BARBACOA
vera’s BACKYARD BAR-B-QUE
But the true measure can’t be bought, sourced or forged.
Desert Southwest
01
INTERVIEW
The importance of patience in barbecue
BOTANIST
The cut of the wood, the engineering of the pit, the size of the meat, the humidity hanging in the air, the turning and the mopping—they all play part to the conjuring of good barbecue. But the true measure can’t be bought, sourced or forged. No, good barbecue can come only by way of patience. It’s about watching that temperature gauge hit 250, 260, 275 degrees, and then trying to keep that needle still. It’s bending to the will of time that keeps the hand on the gauge hovering over the sweet spot so the alchemy of low and slow can march on. The smoke curls around the meat. Throw another log on the fire. The smoke seeps in until a rose halo appears beneath a layer of fat. Break another log apart. Then the transfiguration. A layer of fat substantiates in crackle-crowned unctuous glory atop a tender center. It’s time that creates a whole divine from the sum of its parts. Just wait and see.
I do floristics, which is the study of shrubs, grasses, trees and flowering plants.dication –and later on,
culture
1
atlanta
39
TASTING MENU
Lazy Betty
CIVIL RIGHTS TOUR
CIVIL BIKES
LATE NIGHT
CLERMONT LOUNGE
I’d jig past the trees and sing lyrics to the cicadas.
Desert Southwest
01
INTERVIEW
Dr. Regina N. Bradley celebrates the mixtape
BOTANIST
“I filled the summer before high school with homemade mixtapes and by walking the roads by my house. Mixtapes full of Outkast, Three 6 Mafia, Goodie Mob, Lil Will and Lil John and the East Side Boyz blasting from my Walkman. Those tapes would die cruel deaths, the thin strips snapping after repeated rewinding so I could stop to learn a line or where to emphasize a curse word. I’d jig awkwardly past the trees and sing lyrics to the cicadas. Goodie Mob’s ‘Black Ice’ and ‘booty shake’ music made every one. Listening to that hip-hop made me realize how big the city really was, peppered with different neighborhoods, zones and folks. It was easy to get lost in their stories.”
I do floristics, which is the study of shrubs, grasses, trees and flowering plants.dication –and later on,
1
CAPE COD & THE ISLANDS
40
SECRET BEACH
Pamet Hills
CLAM SHACK
SESUIT HARBOR CAFE
GENERAL STORE
THE BREWSTER STORE
Three friends were drinking at Baxter’s in Hyannis when they decided to race to Nantucket.
Desert Southwest
01
INTERVIEW
The lore behind Figawi, a staple sailing race
BOTANIST
Three friends were drinking at Baxter’s in Hyannis when they decided to race to Nantucket to see whose boat was fastest. Later, lost in fog on Nantucket Sound, one sailor exclaimed, “Where the f*** are we?”—with the expletive later elided to the more family-friendly “Figawi.” Thus was born a beloved Memorial Day weekend tradition, kicking off the summer sailing season with camaraderie, good-natured competition, coveted red caps for participants and plenty of partying for sailors and landlubbers alike since 1972. Today, Figawi draws over 200 boats from across New England.
I do floristics, which is the study of shrubs, grasses, trees and flowering plants.dication –and later on,
1
DETROIT
41
FINDS
Architectural Salvage Warehouse
DINNER
Selden Standard
GARDENS
Anna Scripps Whitcomb Conservatory
Rumors of blasphemy spread through the city.
Desert Southwest
01
INTERVIEW
Mexican muralist Diego Rivera’s Detroit legacy
BOTANIST
Rivera worked in Detroit during 1932 and 1933, commissioned by Edsel Ford, the son of Henry Ford, to paint a large-scale mural at the Institute of Arts. After months observing life at the River Rouge factories, the artist completed a 27-panel fresco that offered homage and critique to modern industry. Quickly, rumors of blasphemy spread through the city, stirring white-hot debate. The city council even called for the murals to be destroyed. DIA director William Valentiner, in response, said this: “I am thoroughly convinced the day will come when Detroit will be proud to have this work in its midst.” Rivera meanwhile, leaving the city with Frida Kahlo, called the murals his greatest achievement.
Detroit Free Press, March 23, 1933: “It is easy to understand the concern and disgust over the grotesquerie and even blasphemy in the Diego Rivera murals. Undoubtedly they contain communist propaganda. The murals certainly cannot be taken seriously.”
Detroit Free Press, March 23, 1933: “It is easy to understand the concern and disgust over the grotesquerie and even blasphemy in the Diego Rivera murals. Undoubtedly they contain communist propaganda. The murals certainly cannot be taken seriously.”
I do floristics, which is the study of shrubs, grasses, trees and flowering plants.dication –and later on,
1
GULF COAST
42
Dockside dinneR
FISHER’S
SCALLOPING
Happy Ours
BOOKSTORE
Sundog Books
You had to learn to breathe from the air hose and stay underwater for 30 minutes.
Desert Southwest
01
INTERVIEW
Vicki Smith, retired mermaid performer
BOTANIST
“You had to learn to breathe from the air hose and stay underwater for 30 minutes. Back in the ’50s at Weeki Wachee Springs, all they did was give us a pair of fins and a face mask. That spring’s over 37 million years old. When you swim over the deep hole, some people get dizzy. The current down there is so strong. We’ve swum with gators, eels, all kinds of fish. The most fun is when the manatees come up. I swam for Elvis Presley in 1961.”
I do floristics, which is the study of shrubs, grasses, trees and flowering plants.dication –and later on,
1
HUDSON VALLEY & CATSKILLS
43
RURAL RESPITE
Phoenicia Diner
COMMUNITY ART
Tivoli Artists Gallery
Antiques
Coxsackie Antique Center
An aquarian exposition in White Lake, NY. Three days of peace and music.
Desert Southwest
01
INTERVIEW
The origins of a famed music festival
BOTANIST
Billed before its August 1969 unfolding as “an aquarian exposition in White Lake, NY. Three days of peace and music,” Woodstock remains a watershed moment in counterculture history–near literally, as festival goers persevered through lines of storms that turned the site into a mud pit. But Woodstock almost didn’t happen. Planning the party before securing the venue, the four promoters failed a few times to find a site large enough to host the event when residents in the town of Woodstock and several other proposed sites balked at the idea of hosting so many hippies. Then, one promoter met Max Yasgur, owner of a 600-acre dairy farm outside Bethel, nearly 60 miles from the festival’s namesake. His view: “Look, the reason you don’t want them here is because you don’t like what they look like. And I don’t particularly like what they look like either. But that’s not the point. They may be protesting the war, but thousands of American soldiers have died so they can do exactly what they’re doing. That’s what the essence of the country is all about.”
I do floristics, which is the study of shrubs, grasses, trees and flowering plants.dication –and later on,
1
LOS ANGELES
44
TIKI BAR
Tiki-Ti
CONTEMPORARY ART
THE BROAD
DELI
LANGER'S
Perched and glowing in the hills of Los Angeles.
Desert Southwest
01
INTERVIEW
A tour of famed modernist homes
BOTANIST
In the 1940s and ‘50s, Arts & Architecture commissioned 36 glassy, modernist abodes, many of which still sit perched and glowing in the hills of Los Angeles. For design aesthetes, a short list of notable glass houses:
Case Study House #110152
Toluca Lake Ave.
Case Study House #8 [Eames]
203 Chautauqua Blvd.
Case Study House for 1953
1811 Bel Air Rd.
Case Study House #179554
Hidden Valley Rd.
Case Study House #22 [Stahl]
1635 Woods Dr.
Case Study House #110152
Toluca Lake Ave.
Case Study House #8 [Eames]
203 Chautauqua Blvd.
Case Study House for 1953
1811 Bel Air Rd.
Case Study House #179554
Hidden Valley Rd.
Case Study House #22 [Stahl]
1635 Woods Dr.
I do floristics, which is the study of shrubs, grasses, trees and flowering plants.dication –and later on,
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1
MAINE COAST
45
EVENT
Stonington Lobster Boat Race
SCENIC DRIVE
State Route 175
OYSTERS
THE SHOP
Out of the steam box they come, flexible as wet noodles.
Desert Southwest
01
INTERVIEW
Bill Mayher reports from The Boatbuilding Capital of the World
BOTANIST
“One of the pleasures of Brooklin, Maine is the extraordinary concentration of workshops. The rhythm of the enterprise draws the observer in–from the laying of the oak keel and deadwood, to setting up the transverse molds over which fore-and-aft ribands go to give the hull its basic shape. Steam-bent ribs of either white or red oak are next. Out of the steam box they come, flexible as wet noodles. The heel of each rib is set into a pocket in the keel, then bent and fastened as they curve upward to the boat’s sheer line. With this basket-like structure in place, next comes native white cedar planking. From the stem of the boat at the bow to its transom, as the ribands are removed in sequence, planks are tightly laid against one another, cheek to cheek, then fastened together. A V-shaped groove results. This groove is then caulked by pounding in strands of white cotton wicking with a chisel-shaped ‘iron.’ A top layer of caulking compound is then troweled on top and smoothed out with a putty knife. Done right, the seams of a carvel-planked boat should be invisible.”
I do floristics, which is the study of shrubs, grasses, trees and flowering plants.dication –and later on,
1
MEMPHIS
46
BBQ Sandwich
PAYNE’S
VINYL
Shangri-La Records
BREWERY
WISEACRE
The architect of the Memphis soul sound.
Desert Southwest
01
INTERVIEW
Grammy-winning producer Boo Mitchell on the Memphis soul sound
BOTANIST
“My father, Willie Mitchell, was the architect of the Memphis soul sound. Pop started cutting here at Royal Studios in ’58 and eventually got signed to Hi Records. Royal was an old theater, so the floor slopes. He thought it gave a mystical quality to the sound. The sound of Royal is really warm but has a bit of grit to it. Funky, not pretty, or pristine. Ann Peebles’ song ‘I Can’t Stand the Rain’ shows that gritty side, the real gut-bucket deep grooves that happened here. The owner Joe Coughi died in 1970 and willed his shares of Royal to my dad. Pop passed in 2010, and I run it today.”
I do floristics, which is the study of shrubs, grasses, trees and flowering plants.dication –and later on,
1
MANHATTAN
47
BAGEL
Kossar’s
BOOKSHOP
Three Lives & Company
Subterranean
GRAND CENTRAL OYSTER BAR
Abstract, geometric canvases.
Desert Southwest
01
INTERVIEW
Five artists of note, and where
to see their work
to see their work
BOTANIST
LOUIS COMFORT TIFFANY [1848-1893]
Art Nouveau stained glass
St Michael's, 225 W 99th
AUGUSTA SAVAGE [1892-1962]
African American portraiture in bronze
The New-York Historical Society
ISAMU NOGUCHI [1904-1988]
Biomorphist sculptures
5th Ave at E 82nd, NW corner
LEE KRASNER [1908-1984]
Abstract, geometric canvases
The Jewish Museum, floor 3
JEAN-MICHEL BASQUIAT [1960-1988]
Neo-expressionist mixed media.
Soho Contemporary, 259 Bowery
Art Nouveau stained glass
St Michael's, 225 W 99th
AUGUSTA SAVAGE [1892-1962]
African American portraiture in bronze
The New-York Historical Society
ISAMU NOGUCHI [1904-1988]
Biomorphist sculptures
5th Ave at E 82nd, NW corner
LEE KRASNER [1908-1984]
Abstract, geometric canvases
The Jewish Museum, floor 3
JEAN-MICHEL BASQUIAT [1960-1988]
Neo-expressionist mixed media.
Soho Contemporary, 259 Bowery
I do floristics, which is the study of shrubs, grasses, trees and flowering plants.dication –and later on,
1
OXFORD
48
BOOKSTORE
Square Books
LANDMARK
Faulkner’s Rowan OaK
Oysters and Chaat
Snackbar
One of the most exciting football games ever played.
Desert Southwest
01
INTERVIEW
Early reporting on a gridiron classic
BOTANIST
“HUNTER, MANNING SPEECHLESS
ABOUT RECORD PERFORMANCES”
The Montgomery Advertiser
October 6, 1969
Scott Hunter ran over to shake Archie Manning’s hand. Manning’s cheeks were wet with tears, because records and personal glory mean nothing when you lose. Both young men, Hunter of Alabama and Manning of Mississippi, had more peaks than the Rocky Mountains in the classic matchup at Legion Field Saturday night. At the end of one of the most exciting football games ever played in the Southeastern Conference, neither had the words to describe what had happened.
ABOUT RECORD PERFORMANCES”
The Montgomery Advertiser
October 6, 1969
Scott Hunter ran over to shake Archie Manning’s hand. Manning’s cheeks were wet with tears, because records and personal glory mean nothing when you lose. Both young men, Hunter of Alabama and Manning of Mississippi, had more peaks than the Rocky Mountains in the classic matchup at Legion Field Saturday night. At the end of one of the most exciting football games ever played in the Southeastern Conference, neither had the words to describe what had happened.
I do floristics, which is the study of shrubs, grasses, trees and flowering plants.dication –and later on,
1
SANTA FE
49
Institution
LA CHOZA
NATIVE AMERICAN ART
SHIPROCK SANTA FE
O’KEEFFE
GEORGIA O’KEEFFE MUSEUM
A perfectly mad looking country.
Desert Southwest
01
INTERVIEW
Georgia O’Keeffe, writing about her Ghost Ranch home near Abiquiú
BOTANIST
“Places that we could only get the horses to go by getting off and pulling several times—places I would never dare to go alone and cowboys wouldn’t be much interested–a perfectly mad looking country—hills and cliffs and washes too crazy to imagine all thrown up into the air by God and let tumble where they would. It was certainly as spectacular as anything I had ever seen—and that was pretty good.”
I do floristics, which is the study of shrubs, grasses, trees and flowering plants.dication –and later on,
1
SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA COAST
50
BREAKFAST
Orange Inn
BEACH VOLLEYBALL
Huntington Beach Pier
TIKI BAR
False IdoL
A 30-foot leg outside a hosiery factory.
Desert Southwest
01
INTERVIEW
Fine examples of California “pop architecture”
BOTANIST
Sanderson Hosiery’s 30-foot leg outside a hosiery factory recalls the lamp from A Christmas Story, though in nude nylons, not fishnets. Big Donut Drive-In [a.k.a. Randy's Donuts] in Inglewood has starred in many music videos and films. And at the 1920s Pup Cafe, diners could enter by walking under the chin of a droopy-eyed pup, with chili hot dogs and burgers awaiting inside.
I do floristics, which is the study of shrubs, grasses, trees and flowering plants.dication –and later on,
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